Beauty Abounds in Western Iowa's Loess Hills

This past weekend's trip and outdoor adventure to the western part of the state served up some wholesome family time close to home. My family is big on small escapes, so any chance my wife and I get to take the kids outside, we do. Our small trip to Western Iowa and Omaha netted my kids great experiences at the Henry Doorly Zoo, trotting across a bridge named Bob, and a trek through the Desoto National Wildlife Refuge (photos and details still to come). Our first stop on the trip was actually a place in Western Iowa between the towns of Pisgah and Moorhead, in a place known as the Loess Hills.

Credit: Tom Ehlers
Panoramic view from the Loess Hills Overlook.

We drove in on the Loess Hills National Scenic Byway, which winds through a land formation that spans up to 15 miles wide and approximately 200 miles long, from north of Sioux City, Iowa to near St. Joseph, Missouri. We even took a chance on one of the coolest and scariest Level B roads in the state of Iowa. Check out our video here or click below!

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After doing a little research it seems this area is made of something they call "sugar clay" and it is easily eroded by wind and rain, hence driving through a trench on that Level B road. Loess soil is known locally as "sugar clay" because it can be extremely hard when dry, but when wet, loses all cohesion.

Credit: Google Maps

We attempted to swing by the visitor center on our way through the area but it had closed for the day. Additional the state forest park was opening the next day so we were only able to take a short hike through the area. The views and the hike at the overlook though. Absolutely breath taking.

Credit: Tom Ehlers Panoramic view of a section of the Loess Hills State Forest.

So, what exactly are the Loess Hills in Iowa?

These hills are primarily composed of windblown soils. During the last ice age, winds carried fine soil particles, akin to flour, and deposited them along the ancient waterway that eventually formed the Missouri River. Over thousands of years, this process repeated itself, resulting in the formation of dunes. The prevailing northwest winds led to higher dunes on the Iowa side of the river compared to those on the western side in Missouri and Nebraska. Take a look at my video here, or below, to get an idea of the entire area from the overlook.

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Today, a Loess Hill is defined as a hill made of loess soil that stands more than 60 feet tall. This landform encompasses around 640,000 acres in western Iowa. While loess deposits can be found worldwide, Iowa boasts some of the highest concentrations outside of China. Early visitors to the hills may also get an eyeful of fuzzy Pasque flowers which were just starting to pop on our visit.

Credit: Tom Ehlers
These are a type of early blooming Pasque Flower. They were really starting to pop across the trail area.

Over time, topsoil developed on these dunes, giving rise to a unique natural community of formations. During the early years of the Loess Hills, ice age animals like woolly mammoths, camels, giant beavers, and giant sloths roamed the area. Evidence of early human habitation is evident in the form of found stone tools, spear points, pottery, and burial sites, showcasing the rich history across this region. Check out the photos of my visit to the Loess Hills below, and make sure to take a trip and experience it for yourself.